2019 - 3 Days in Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat, between Oud and timeless stones

My journey to Cambodia began as part of a commercial and documentary project for Xerjoff, a luxury perfume house known for its deep research into rare raw materials. One of these treasures is Oud, also called agarwood: a precious resin formed when Aquilaria trees are naturally infected. With its smoky, woody, and spiritual notes, Oud has been revered for centuries across Asia and the Middle East, used in sacred rituals and in the creation of some of the most extraordinary perfumes.

After completing my work documenting this fascinating raw material, I took the chance to explore Angkor Wat and its surroundings for two days. Those days became a journey within the journey: wandering among ruins swallowed by the jungle, crossing paths with monks in saffron robes, and standing in awe before towers decorated with serene stone faces.

Considered the largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat was built in the early 12th century by King Suryavarman II as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Designed to symbolize Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain at the center of the universe, it extends across more than 160 hectares, surrounded by an immense moat. Over the centuries, it gradually transformed into a Buddhist sanctuary, becoming a living reflection of Cambodia’s spiritual evolution. Today, its five lotus-shaped towers and endless galleries of bas-reliefs remain one of the most powerful symbols of Khmer culture and resilience.

 

Day 1 – Monks, Roots, and Silent Faces

My first day in Angkor unfolded between encounters with monks and the timeless embrace of the jungle. As I wandered through the ruins, the sight of orange-robed monks moving quietly among ancient sculptures added an almost surreal sense of spirituality. Their presence transformed the broken stones into something alive, as if the temples were still breathing.

The highlight of the day was Ta Prohm, the “jungle temple,” where gigantic silk-cotton and fig tree roots wrap themselves around crumbling walls and gateways. Here, nature is not an intruder but a co-creator, shaping the ruins into one of the most atmospheric sites of Angkor. Walking through its moss-covered galleries felt like entering a forgotten world, where history and myth intertwine.

Among the stones I also crossed paths with the true inhabitants of the temples: groups of long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis). Playful, curious, and often cheeky, they roam freely around the ruins, stealing food or sipping from water bottles left behind by visitors. Their presence added an unexpected yet authentic glimpse into daily life around Angkor, reminding me that these monuments are not just relics of the past but still part of a living ecosystem.

Later, I came across the enigmatic stone faces carved on the towers of Bayon. With their calm expressions and subtle smiles, they seemed to follow me with a silent gaze, watching over centuries of history. These faces, often considered the soul of Angkor Thom, were the perfect conclusion to a day suspended between spirituality and wonder.

Day 2 – Sunrise at Angkor Wat and the Temple of Baphuon

The second day began before dawn, standing by the wide moat of Angkor Wat. As the sky shifted from deep blue to soft pink, the reflection of the temple’s five lotus-shaped towers appeared in the still waters — one of the most iconic sunrises in the world. The atmosphere was both serene and powerful, especially with groups of young monks in saffron robes walking along the shore, their presence reminding me that Angkor Wat is not only a UNESCO monument but also a living place of devotion.

Crossing the stone causeway, I entered the immense galleries covered in bas-reliefs. Entire walls narrate Hindu myths and Khmer victories, with extraordinary details such as the Churning of the Ocean of Milk and long processions of celestial dancers. Every corridor seemed to converge towards the central sanctuary, symbol of Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain of Hindu mythology. The sense of scale is overwhelming, as if the temple were built to bridge the human world with the divine.

Later in the day, I moved to Baphuon, inside the ancient city of Angkor Thom. This temple-mountain, dedicated to Shiva, was once known as the “Tower of Bronze.” Its monumental causeway leads to a massive three-tiered pyramid, which in the 11th century stood as one of the largest structures in Angkor. Although much of it collapsed over time, its partial reconstruction reveals the sheer ambition of the Khmer builders. Around the ruins, daily life unfolds naturally: I saw a villager leading his cow across the temple grounds, a timeless scene that seemed to echo the centuries-old bond between the people and these sacred stones.

The day ended with the golden light of sunset bathing Baphuon, its terraces glowing warmly against the darkening sky. If the first day was about encounters with monks, roots, and monkeys, the second day revealed the grandeur of Angkor’s most celebrated temple and the enduring strength of one of its oldest pyramids.

Day 3 – Psar Chaa Market and the journey back

On my last day in Cambodia I decided to immerse myself in the vibrant atmosphere of Psar Chaa, Siem Reap’s Old Market. Here, life unfolds in a raw and authentic way: from fruit stalls overflowing with colors to the intense alleys of the meat section, from children playing in the corners to women resting in hammocks behind their counters. Every face, every gesture told a story of daily resilience and tradition.

This lively interlude was the perfect contrast to the silent majesty of the temples I had visited in the previous days. The market offered me a glimpse into the real Cambodia, beyond history and ruins, where people live their everyday life with the same energy that has sustained this land for centuries.

From there, my journey took me back across the border to Thailand, stopping briefly in Bangkok before returning to Italy. The images and emotions of Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, Bayon, Baphuon, and the bustling market of Siem Reap remain etched in my memory, a timeless blend of spirituality, history, and humanity.

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